Gaja
If ever there is a discussion about the wines of Piedmont, there is one producer who will always be included: Gaja.
Each major region in Italy has its most famed and celebrated producers. Gaja is one of those revered producers in Piedmont (and Tuscany), specifically in Barolo and Barbaresco. Ever since the mid-20th century, Gaja has transformed Italian viticulture and winemaking through radical and often controversial innovations. The family’s prestigious wines made in Piedmont and Tuscany have captivated both consumers and wine critics, making them avidly sought-after by collectors around the world. The family and wines alike are adored vintage after vintage, so much so that the Gaja eponymous label will continue for generations to come.
Now, let’s journey through the inspiring story of the Gaja winery:
In the 17th century, the Gaja family came to Italy from Spain and started a tavern. By 1859, Giovanni Gaja founded the winery and started bottling his wines, and supplied them to the Italian army in Abyssinia.
In 1937, Giovanni’s grandson, Giovanni Gaja (Angelo Gaja’s father), labeled his wines “Gaja” and acquired three Crus - Sorì San Lorenzo, Sorì Tildìn, and Costa Russi.
Although the winery grew under each generation, it was the fourth-generation winemaker of the Gaja family - Angelo Gaja - who made some pioneering changes (which often ran into controversies.)
In the 1960s and 70s, Angelo introduced breakthrough practices like green harvesting, malolactic fermentation, and the use of a new French oak barrique.
He introduced single-vineyard wines like Sori San Lorenzo, Sori Tilden, and Costa Russi.
In 1977, he founded Gaja Distribuzione - a company that imports and distributes wine and wine accessories from other countries.
From 1978, Angelo started replanting the estate owned vineyards with French grape varieties, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc (despite opposition from his father, Giovanni, and against Piedmont’s varietal protocol.)
His first Cabernet Sauvignon-based red wine was named “Damargi,” meaning “what a pity,” which is believed to be Giovanni’s reaction to the French grapes planted on his Italian soils.
He released the Barolo Sperss red wine in 1992.
In 1994 and 1996, Angelo bought two wine estates of Tuscany - Pieve Santa Restituta in Montalcino (for his Brunello di Montalcino wines) and the Ca’Marcanda estate in Castagneto Carducci, Bolgheri.
In 1996, Angelo intentionally declassified most of his DOCG Barbaresco and Barolo wines to the lower DOC classification Langhe Rosso because he didn’t want his wines to be termed “regular.”
So, no wonder Angelo is known as the “undisputed king of Barbaresco!”
In 2004, Angelo passed the reins of the winery to his daughters, the fifth generation of the Gaja family - Gaia and Rossana Gaja. Under Gaia’s supervision, the Barbaresco and Barolo wines were reclassified as a DOCG.
Since the reign of Angelo, Gaja has been an uncompromising tour de force in Italy, with a strict adherence to personal integrity. Gaja has commanded respect from the global market, and continues to be one of the most sought-after Italian producers still. Whenever there is an opportunity to procure Gaja, it is always fortuitous to seize.